I signed up to the Eska forum at Yahoo but don't see any old posts? They came with some spare parts, and several spare impellers and props, along with a 14' Sears boat. It runs but the screws that hold the shroud on are broken off and need to be drilled out or worked loose. The other motor I got with it is older, its all aluminum with only a remote tank option. This one is new enough to have solid state ignition, a built in tank, and plastic transom brackets. The model number is a 217/58592-0, I had no luck finding any info on it at Sears, it wouldn't take the number but its stamped plain as day on the tag. The only way its coming apart is by force or by drilling out all the bolts. I realize these have a water pump, but I don't see how it can pump water up into the power head? I tried to get the power head off but the bolts are rusted in place. Its in rough shape, it appears to have seen salt water use but it runs fine out of the water. Not so much that I care to fix it, it's most likely going to be a donor motor to the other one, but how would water get up the exhaust into the cylinder on one of these? The motor is only in the water about a foot, it takes less than half a pull on the rope to lock up the motor, if I pull the plug with the motor in the water it slobbers water out the plug hole when pulling the rope. This is an air cooled motor, how or where can water be getting up into the motor? I pump out the water, and it starts and runs fine out of the water, if I hang it in a barrel, it fills the cylinder with water and locks up. It had me puzzled at first, it ran fine, on 24:1 chainsaw mix, I hung it in a barrel and it tried to start it and it seized up. It'll start and run fine out the water, but locks up in the water.
You’ve spent a lot of time and effort on a motor that is not really popular and most would have dismissed.I was given two motors yesterday, one runs but has a bunch of missing bolts and screws on the power head, the other runs but dies in the water. I can’t recall if the 4.5 had it but if it is solid state then you need to connect with a man in Danbury CT that is the guru of them – here’s his website: Lastly, starting in the 1970s many of the Eskas used a solid state ignition that was very trouble prone. I take it you’ve adjusted the needle valves and that hasn’t helped? The only real luck I’ve ever seen with getting them to work correctly was when you could order the whole carb new…. Yes, those carbs are TERRIBLE and that pump is very problematic. The impellers are not easy to find and are quite pricey – eBay may be your best source. And the prop tube won’t work really well in a test tank even if the prop is on there.) If the water splash feature is not functioning, you’ll cook the lower seal and bearing and that may cause some of the problems you are experiencing. (If not then it has a tube aft of the prop for the same job – not having the prop is like not having the water pump.
Likely your problems are elsewhere many of those motors had a waterpump in the lower unit that splashed water on the lower crank seal to keep it cool. I’m no expert on them but I’d say your compression was stellar. Remind me to leave alone the "froze engines"! Too great, causing havoc with it starting and working the impulse
Is it possible that my compression is okay, but the piston to cylinder clearance What is optimal compression for these engines? It’s a Tecumseh powerhead and carb that has the little bitty Throttle and choke it briefly to keep to keep it running.Įngine was not overheating that I could tell. It wanted to die out below half throttle, but sometimes I could give it more
I could only get it to start in the testīarrel with the prop off. Had to hone cylinder more than I hoped being it was froze up. New rings, engine seals, points, condenser, etc. My uncle gave me this "froze up" outboard and said… "I sure would like to hear it run"
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